There is a point in every teenager’s life when the components of their growing bodies—noses, limbs, ears—lose the harmonic symmetry they displayed as children and spend some time in awkward disarray before eventually, if they’re lucky, realigning.
The city of Miami is currently enduring its phase as a graceless teenager. Signs of maturity can be spotted, haphazardly strewn around the city’s body, in the elegant cheekbones of the new half-billion-dollar opera house complex downtown, the debaucherous weeklong contemporary art festival that draws collectors from around the world, and the greening of several important corporate offices. Other aspects of Miami’s coming into itself, however, lag behind.
Its upscale food scene, for instance—surprising in a city so replete with world-class hotels. It’s hard to blame anyone; the food in Miami often serves as backdrop, just for show (in a cocaine-fueled city of supermodels, who eats?). There’s Bed, a restaurant where the food is served, of course, in bed. There’s the new “beautritional cuisine,” served at Afterglo, where you can buy a “Beauty Pill” made of salmon, mango and broccoli sprouts. And now the hottest gimmick of the moment—sustainable—has finally come to town.